Victorian

The Victorian Era refers to the period of Queen Victoria's reign in the United Kingdom during the years 1837 to 1901. The jewelry of the time reflected to a large degree the Queen's life events and personal tastes. The predominant design in the earlier part of the period, during the "romantic years" of the royal couple, was the snake motif, a symbol of eternal love and wisdom. This was extremely popular in necklaces, bracelets, rings, and brooches. Also common was the hand motif, symbolizing friendship.

Much of the jewelry of the period was typically large and luxuriant, inlaid with pearls and diamonds. Characteristic jewelry of the time included gold link-bracelets with gemstones or enamel; Albert chains made of gold or silver; pendants and brooches studded with coral, ivory, tortoise shell and seed pearls. Cameo and intaglio jewelry, carved on various gemstones, were also sought after, as well as micro mosaic jewels, which were the influence of recent archaeological excavations, not least the Pompeii finds.

In 1861, following the death of Prince Albert, mourning jewelry reigned supreme for about 25 years. These were dominated by black and were normally made of the coal-black jet stone, onyx, and black enamel. Also popular were memorial jewelry decorated with the loved one's hair. By the end of the 1800s, the mourning period was over and smaller and brighter jewelry were making a comeback. The turn of the century also saw the increasing popularity of costume jewelry, which were made of fake materials and were therefore much more affordable.